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removing HeroClix bases?
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Snate56
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just buy washers from the hardware store, they come in a myriad of sizes and give a certain heft to the finished figure.




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vaganardi
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freeze them first - then they pry-off easily
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VonDan
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snate56 wrote:
I just buy washers from the hardware store, they come in a myriad of sizes and give a certain heft to the finished figure.

SteveN


Slugs would work better than washers if you can find a steady supply
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Lord Inar
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vaganardi wrote:
Freeze them first - then they pry-off easily


Neat! Does that make the figure itself more delicate too? (Some of them have pretty thin legs)
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VonDan
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option is if you know exactly what glue they use is to find a debonder for it.



Von "I keep super glue debonder handy and i wont tell you why" Dan
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sirkerry
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VonDan wrote:
Another option is if you know exactly what glue they use is to find a debonder for it.


Err, speaking of glue, what's the best type of glue to use to glue say a foot back onto a heroclix figure?

Also, what's the best glues to use to glue the heroclix figures to regular plastic basics and/or acrylix bases?
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Jordan Peacock
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sirkerry wrote:
Err, speaking of glue, what's the best type of glue to use to glue say a foot back onto a heroclix figure?


Super glue, I think -- but only if you pin it first. That is, you'll need a hobby pinning drill (NOT a power drill!) to drill a hole into both pieces, then join them with a small piece of wire. (I use straightened-out paperclips cut to length for this purpose.) There's no "wonder glue" that's going to bond such fine little pieces suitably otherwise, in my estimate.

As far as gluing a figure down to a new base, it largely depends on how much surface area you have to work with. If you can "pin" it down as noted before, and you have a wide enough area of surface, you can get by with craft glues such as Tacky Glue. For some older Mage Knight minis and certain Clix minis that have a wide contact surface (such as a "Firebug" mini who is rising from a mass of plastic flames, or a "Healing Priestess" who has a flowing dress that touches ground), I've gotten just by with ordinary craft glue -- or a dot of super glue -- without any "pinning" required.

If all you have are the bottoms of tiny figure feet, you'll probably need to pin them so they don't keep coming apart, and super glue will work fairly well.
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Snate56
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slugs don't come in the massive variety of sizes, and are typically too thick.




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vaganardi
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lord Inar wrote:
vaganardi wrote:
Freeze them first - then they pry-off easily


Neat! Does that make the figure itself more delicate too? (Some of them have pretty thin legs)


It can make the figures a little brittle - so go slow - I find gently squeezing with plastic snips at the place where they are glued to the base will pop them right off. You will also need to do it while they are ice cold. Once they warm back up to room temp they won't pop off as easy.
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Lord Inar
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vaganardi wrote:
... You will also need to do it while they are ice cold. Once they warm back up to room temp they won't pop off as easy.

I can see it now... "Honey, why are there little plastic people in the freezer?"
"Oh, nothing really!"
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Big Juju
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty happy with how my re-based Clix have turned out. (Click on the pictures to enlarge them.)

Like most everyone else - I start with regular Clix.


I use a hobby knife to pry the Clix off of their original base.

I use 7/8" metal fender washers to re-base them.


I spray the washers with flat black paint. I use a circle cutter to cut out discs from different types of paper terrain which I've printed on sticker paper. I peel the circle and stick it on the painted washer.


I use a gap-filling superglue to glue the feet of the Clix to its new base. It's a little bit of work to get these results - but still faster than painting miniatures straight from the blister pack.

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Jordan Peacock
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The sticker-texture bases are a pretty cool idea! It's definitely better than just going with plain bases if you're aiming for all the benefits of pre-painting rather than flocking/texturing bases on your own.
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sirkerry
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Juju wrote:
I'm pretty happy with how my re-based Clix have turned out.


Thanks for the info, I've found a couple of places to get plastic bases of the sizes I want, looking forward to receiving and trying my hand a remounting some heroclix (and some AT-43 minis to smaller bases).
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Jordan Peacock
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sirkerry wrote:
(and some AT-43 minis to smaller bases).


I hear you there! The AT-43 and Dust Tactics bases look quite nice, but I think I've become less-than-charmed with the tendency toward 30mm (or wider) bases with so many recent miniatures games. So much of my gaming terrain is designed with a bias toward inch (or about 25mm) increments, so I end up with corridors that are JUST a little too narrow to put two of the 30mm-based characters side-by-side, and so forth.

I hope the scale inflation doesn't keep on going; I have already heard murmurings from folks at the game store that perhaps snapping back to 15mm scale (or even 10mm!) would be desirable for RPGs. (I'm already pretty much there for my large-scale vehicular combats, using re-based Mechwarrior vehicles and infantry models and modified Micro Machines for modern and post-apoc vehicles.)
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sirkerry
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Juju wrote:

I use a gap-filling superglue to glue the feet of the Clix to its new base.


Any particular brand of gap-filling superglue recommended?
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sirkerry
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jordan Peacock wrote:

I hear you there! The AT-43 and Dust Tactics bases look quite nice, but I think I've become less-than-charmed with the tendency toward 30mm (or wider) bases with so many recent miniatures games. So much of my gaming terrain is designed with a bias toward inch (or about 25mm) increments, so I end up with corridors that are JUST a little too narrow to put two of the 30mm-based characters side-by-side, and so forth.


Yeah those oversized 30mm bases suck, they're just a little bit to big to use. But it still beats painting minis in my book.
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Other Mike
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sirkerry wrote:
Err, speaking of glue, what's the best type of glue to use to glue say a foot back onto a heroclix figure?

Also, what's the best glues to use to glue the heroclix figures to regular plastic basics and/or acrylix bases?


For the first question, I would say it depends on the figure and the break. I'd use superglue or 5 minute epoxy.

As for the second, I now use 5 minute epoxy to glue a figure onto a regular plastic base. I also use it for gluing metal figures together as well. I used to use superglue, but I'm much happier with the results I get from epoxy. I use the small individual tubes.

Oh, I also sometimes fill the slots in plastic bases with epoxy, putting them face down on wax paper. A little clean up with the #11 blade and a little sanding, and I have a smooth base.

I have hordes of HorrorClix I have re-based this way. Smile
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sirkerry
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Other Mike wrote:

As for the second, I now use 5 minute epoxy to glue a figure onto a regular plastic base. I also use it for gluing metal figures together as well. I used to use superglue, but I'm much happier with the results I get from epoxy. I use the small individual tubes.


Thanks, for 5 minute epoxy, you're referring to the stuff made by Devcon?
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Jordan Peacock
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sirkerry wrote:
Thanks, for 5 minute epoxy, you're referring to the stuff made by Devcon?


I've used 5-minute epoxy a lot, but I recommend that if you're going to use it for basing figures, have a BUNCH of miniatures lined up and ready to be glued at once, rather than trying to mix JUST enough to glue a single figure-to-base at a time. I've found it to be a bit difficult to balance out the amounts of epoxy for each half when doing very small amounts, and the "syringe" applicators that push down two containers at once aren't exactly precise. Getting too far out of balance in the two parts can result in epoxy that takes especially long to solidify ... or, worse, never completely hardens. Plus, when mixing the epoxy, a certain amount of it is doomed to just remain stuck to the toothpick (or whatever) you're using to stir it, and the surface you're mixing the epoxy on.

Hence, it's more efficient to mix a bit more at once -- so having slightly more or less of one part isn't amplified as much as it would be in a smaller batch, and less waste (unless, of course, you mix much more than you intend to use).

I also use 5-minute epoxy for small "water effects" or "slime effects" on bases (ectoplasm! gore! small puddles!) by mixing in a bit of color. Very Happy
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Other Mike
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sirkerry wrote:
Thanks, for 5 minute epoxy, you're referring to the stuff made by Devcon?


That would be one brand. The stuff I pick up at the local hobby shop is BSI (Bob Smith Industries), the local hardware store has another brand.

Jordan Peacock wrote:
I've used 5-minute epoxy a lot, but I recommend that if you're going to use it for basing figures, have a BUNCH of miniatures lined up and ready to be glued at once, rather than trying to mix JUST enough to glue a single figure-to-base at a time.


Oh yeah. I should have mentioned that. I usually do five or six at a time. Otherwise, you are wasting a bit of your time.

Jordan Peacock wrote:
I've found it to be a bit difficult to balance out the amounts of epoxy for each half when doing very small amounts, and the "syringe" applicators that push down two containers at once aren't exactly precise.


I do NOT recommend the "syringe" applicators. I find them a serious pain to use. The epoxy and the hardener have a different viscosity, and I have never gotten these things to work well. On top of that, it's too easy to get cross contamination. I hate 'em, I hate 'em I hate 'em!! Wink

I always get the sets of two individual bottles. I don't go through the 5 minute epoxy fast enough to get anything but the small bottles. ... Now, when I'm building a high power rocket, the larger bottles of 15 minute epoxy work out well as I go though a lot. Anyway ...

When working with miniatures, I usually have a couple of plastic Pringles can lids about. I put down a drop or three of the epoxy onto the lid ... whatever I need ... then try to match the drops with the hardener ... it's not very hard to do, and it just needs to be close ... then mix it with a toothpick and apply. When the remainder of the epoxy on the Pringles lid hardens, I can usually pop it off and reuse the lid.

If I'm just putting a single figure into a slotted base, It's not hard to mix up just what I need to use for this, though it's still more efficient to do multiple figures.

Another tip when using epoxy. If you want to thin it and extend it's cure time, add a little denatured alcohol. A little alcohol goes a long, long way, so be careful. I never use this technique for basing miniatures, but on rare occasions when I need to flow some epoxy into a gap or hole, it does the trick.

That tip should also improve your water effects, as the epoxy will flow better.
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